A gleaming pot contains a creamy dessert so golden it resembles sunshine in a bowl. Our waiter spoonfully serves the rich, egg-based sauce, known as *zabaglione*, into cups for dipping warm *pansarole* fritters. Conversation halts, a quiet race to grab the last piece. This is literally savoring life's sweetness.
This delicacy is a specialty in the village of Apricale, a enchanted village in Liguria, Italy's curved region that embraces the Mediterranean Sea. It's a world away from the busy Cinque Terre and luxurious Portofino harbor to the south-east. This western part, on the south-eastern border with neighboring France, feels more genuine and more peaceful in the winter, with more inhabitants than visitors. Released from competing for tables, you are able to be in the moment. Let impulse be your compass – or, in my family's case, our cravings.
Our Family's Trip Rooted in Love for Italian Cuisine
I ventured to Liguria with my sibling, her spouse, and their teenage children, motivated by my sister's studies in Italy and our mutual love for the country's satisfying, family-friendly cuisine. Our journey traveled from the coastal Riviera dei Fiori to a constellation of ancient mountain villages. In just 30 sq miles, we journeyed back in time.
A former partner from Sicily had shown me Liguria one January. Though it was wet, the alpine ranges deflect the wind, creating a special weather zone with moderate weather that hover around 13C. My family's December trip was filled with the most gorgeous winter light, perfect for alfresco meals.
The First Stop: A Town Suspended Overlooking the Sea
Driving east from Nice, the highway is punctuated by a series of breathtaking curves and underground passages. Our first stop was a short drive away, just over the French border. Ventimiglia is divided into two parts: the bustling modern town and the historical *città alta*, poised between sea and sky. On a terrace bathed in light, we tucked into seafood fritters accompanied by Mediterranean views. The kids played pirates in front of a statue of the Black Corsair, the hero of a famous swashbuckling novel.
We ventured into the tangled web of the historic center via the medieval gateway. Clothes was strung across colorful buildings, their beautiful patina coming from long history. Two places of worship on a main street have fascinating details: the lifelike *Cristo Morto* (depiction of Christ) and an ancient stone basin.
We walked into the winding maze of the old town where laundry fluttered from soft-colored walls, their beautiful patina resulting from the passage of time.
A Riverside Gem: Ancient Paths and a Monet Bridge
Back in the car, we drove 20 minutes north to the riverside village of Dolceacqua. An quick lookup for "places featuring tubs" brought us to a charming stone hotel set in the old district. Its quaint accommodations are contrasted with modern whirlpool baths. The medieval Terra quarter sits across the Nervia river via the iconic old bridge that the painter Monet famously painted, as evidenced by a wooden cut-out of him by the riverside.
On the castle road, the children felt "enveloped by the stone buildings" that leaned towards each other. We walked up the narrow Ligurian *caruggi* (alleyways) to the Castello dei Doria. The seat of a powerful dynasty from the Renaissance era, Dolceacqua's historic landmark is now an roofless remnant of tall arches, a history lesson that is ideal for playing.
Back in town for pre-dinner drinks, every drink came with a complimentary snacks – "As it ought to be," said a family member. Our waiter at a nearby eatery assured us: "All the dishes are wonderful. If you aren't pleased, it's on me." We sampled regional dishes: *trofie* (curly) pasta with pesto, potatoes and green beans, and *barbajuan* (vegetable and cheese-filled) fritters. All paired with a local red wine, an robust red that's seldom found abroad due to the challenging terrain's small production.
A Hilltop Marvel: Precariously Perched Beauty
The next day, we motored 15 minutes north-east to one of "the country's loveliest hamlets", this stunning village. The terracotta-roofed village clings to green hills, seemingly challenging physics. Known as an artists' town, Apricale's maze-like streets are decorated by paintings. We got a personal tour, with wandering felines the only inhabitants on the empty streets.
The main piazza, the piazza, is flanked by two rose-colored churches and the carefully maintained millennium-old the castle, whose underground prison evoked the dark ages. As did the similarly stone-arched dining room at a nearby restaurant, where we wouldn't have been surprised the waiter to carve the roast with a dagger. The source of the celebrated egg-yolk dessert also serves robust *coniglio* (local rabbit) and meat dish with cornmeal and *farinata* (crispy chickpea fritters). On the way back to the hotel, we visited Perinaldo, another idyllic spot, for a digestive *passeggiata* – the traditional Italian leisurely evening stroll.
Sanremo
Back on the coast, the city of Sanremo felt like a bustling metropolis compared with the mountain retreats. The city of over fifty thousand became a tourism hotspot in the 1800s, when the European aristocracy, particularly English travelers, decamped to the Mediterranean for its mild winter climate. Ornate belle epoque grand hotels, casinos and villas are reminders of this era, their aging elegance like a actress in her retirement.
The city's Mercato Annonario was stocked with gargantuan cheese wheels, {cured meats|salamis|prosci
